Thurgau has a wealth of small and large convents and monasteries. In the Middle Ages, the Benedictines, Dominicans, Cistercians, and Augustinians founded more than a dozen retreats, including many convents. These imposing edifices continue to dominate the landscape even today and are magnificent attractions for tourism and recreation.
In the mid 19th century, though, most of these monasteries were nationalized and closed. The young canton of Thurgau looked for new uses for the many buildings which it had acquired in this manner and exhibited remarkable imagination. Kalchrain near Herdern and the former headquarters of the Knights of St. John in Tobel were converted into prisons. Hospitals were created in Münsterlingen and in the Dominican convent of St. Katharinental near Diessenhofen while the Augustinian canon chapterhouse in Kreuzlingen became home of Thurgau’s teacher’s seminar.
Today, many of the former convents and monasteries are open to the public in one form or another. Thus, the baroque churches of Paradies, Münsterlingen, or St. Katharinental have an outstanding reputation as harmonious concert sites. But anyone interested in catching a glimpse of monastic life should visit Fischingen Abbey of the Benedictines, or Charterhouse Ittingen.
Since 1977, half a dozen Benedictine monks are living again in Fischingen and run a house of education. In addition to the ecclesiastic, religious education on the weekends, the house is also open to all members of the world of business and education for guest courses. But also individual visitors will find something to their liking in Fischingen. Exhibits are regularly organized with contemporary artists on the abbey’s premises which also permit one to look around in the monastic buildings during the day.
The highlight of every visit is surely the newly restored monastery church. Today’s building is defined by the comprehensive reconstruction that was carried out between 1685-1687 and the subsequent baroque decoration. Particularly remarkable is St. Idda Chapel, a high baroque edifice, which was newly built starting in 1704; nothing comparable may be found anywhere near and far. Saint Idda of Toggenburg lived in the 12th century and had retreated to a cell near Fischingen Abbey after the untimely death of her husband. Here, she lived as a contemplative woman steeped in prayer and as a counselor of the common folk. Her veneration as a holy woman commenced after her death. Various legends arose around her person, and soon pilgrimages to Fischingen began. A little gate still exists at her tomb through which pilgrims may put their feet so that they might be alleviated of their foot ailments.
In contrast to the lively pilgrimages, Charterhouse Ittingen was much more hushed. Carthusian monks combine the ideals of hermitic life with a communal monastic lifestyle. Secluded in the sanctuary of the monastery’s premises, they pursue a rigid daily schedule and keep a vow of silence. No monks have lived in Ittingen since 1848. But the premises have been carefully preserved for more than 150 years so that it is possible to catch a glimpse of the Carthusian world. A number of cells are still kept as if the monastery had just been occupied recently. The richly ornamented church and the carefully restored infrastructure of the monastery with the refectory, chapter house, sacristies, and guest wing may be visited as well. They vividly demonstrate that this secluded monastic community also managed a very successful business back in the 17th and 18th centuries.
Today, Charterhouse Ittingen is actually more than just a historical museum. The Thurgau Museum of Art resides at the same location. It houses not only the canton’s art collection, but also unites art and history through its exhibits of contemporary artists from all over the world. A highlight of any visit to Charterhouse Ittingen is definitely also the “Ittingen Walk,” created by the Canadian artist Janet Cardiff, which permits one to experience the historical rooms in a unique fashion and which winds its way through a contemporary work of art. But those who seek more spiritual experiences will also find something in Ittingen as well. In addition to the extensive program of courses, the Protestant center for meetings and education tecum also invites visitors to use a room of silence for meditation while a maze in the garden allows one to experience first hand a meditative search for the center. Thus, the buildings and gardens of the former monastery combine historical knowledge with contemporary needs and experiences most elegantly.
Markus Landert
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